Hot and sour soup with fresh shiitake mushrooms

You’ll be amazed at how doable this classic Chinese restaurant soup can be—in your own kitchen, and with no fancy technique or mysterious ingredients. Fresh shiitake mushrooms are easy to find these days, and very rewarding to cook with. You only need a few to get a major flavor and texture impact. Same with the toasted sesame oil: Here’s your front-row seat to witness how a mere teaspoon works exponential magic, infusing an
entire batch of soup with its inimitable flavor.
INGREDIENTS

2 eggs
10 medium-sized (about ½ pound) fresh shiitake mushrooms
2 tablespoons canola, soy, or peanut oil
1¼ teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
5¼ cups water
¼ cup cider vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ pound firm tofu, cut into thin strips
1 to 2 tablespoons light brown sugar (optional)
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1½ tablespoons cornstarch
1 scallion, green part only, very thinly sliced on the diagonal
A handful of cilantro leaves, torn or coarsely chopped

PROCEDURE

1. Lightly beat the eggs in a small bowl until you no longer see any bits of egg white. Leave the bowl on the counter or somewhere warm, so the eggs can come to room temperature while you make the soup.
2. Clean the mushroom caps by wiping them with a damp paper towel. Use a paring knife or scissors to cut off the stems. Discard the stems, and then thinly slice the caps and set them aside.
3. Place a soup pot or a Dutch oven over medium heat. After about a minute, add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the sliced mushrooms, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until the mushrooms are golden brown.
4. Add the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt, 5 cups of the water, and the vinegar, soy sauce, tofu, and, if desired, a tablespoon of the brown sugar. (Then taste the soup, and if you think it needs more sweetness, add the second tablespoon of brown sugar.) Bring to a boil, then turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting. Partially cover, and simmer gently for 10 minutes.
5. Add the sesame oil and about 10 grinds of black pepper, and stir to combine.
6.Put the cornstarch in a small bowl with the remaining ¼ cup water, and mix until smooth. Stir the cornstarch mixture into the hot soup. Continue simmering for a minute or two, stirring once or twice. The soup will become glossy and will thicken slightly.
7. Slowly drizzle the beaten eggs into the simmering soup, stirring as you go. Cook for just 1 minute longer, until the eggs are set. Serve hot, topping each bowl with a scattering of scallion greens and cilantro leaves

Serves 4 to 5